Karmel Market brings grocery creativity and connection

Mary Barghout

Feeling too exhausted to cook and yet not wanting to spend too much money on meal delivery is a sentiment that describes most of my friends and family lately. By the time we get to the evening our mental capacities feel pretty depleted and the desire for convenience is high.

But another thing I’ve noticed is the immense feelings of pride whenever we manage to defy the impulses of a weary weeknight and cook something that turned out better than expected. Or the joy of making something that even a picky eater ended up liking.

Convinced that including more cooking in my day can lead to an increase in feeling present and creative, I reached out to one of my best friends Hiba Haid—mom, healthcare worker, and resident comedian of the group chat—and asked her for a meal memory that is particularly strong. She recommended a dish called Hilib Suqaar (a beef and vegetable saute) with a side of Sabaayad (a pan-fried flatbread).

Recipes for both of these can be found in the cookbook called “SOOMAALIYA” by Ifrah F. Ahmed, and signed copies are available at Magers and Quinn, in case your cooking curiosity overlaps with the desire to support a local bookstore.

Upon finding a lengthy list of spices needed to make Xawaash (a spice blend commonly used in Somali cuisine), the culinary quest brought me to Karmel Market, a bright, new grocery store at 2933 Pleasant Ave. that is well stocked with ingredients you wouldn’t be able to find at a Cub or Aldi.

I appreciated the substantial whole spice options, the in-house bakery, meat counter, and the array of drinks and frozen food options.

I spoke with the owner of Karmel Market, Mo Khanat, who encourages us to take the time to both cook and commune. Through that, we will be more connected in our lives.

INTERVIEW WITH KARMEL MARKET OWNER MO KHANAT
Mary Barghout: Who did the cooking when you were growing up and what was one flavor/taste you still remember fondly?

Mo Khanat: My mother did much of the cooking when I was growing up, and food was always a big part of our home. It wasn’t only about eating — it was about family, guests, conversation and having people around the table.

One of the simplest tastes that still takes me back is za’atar with good olive oil and warm bread. There is nothing fancy about it, but even today, that combination immediately reminds me of home.

MB: What is one dish or recipe you think more people should know about?

MK: I would say musakhan, a traditional Palestinian dish.

It’s roasted chicken served over bread with a generous amount of onions cooked slowly in olive oil and sumac, usually finished with toasted nuts. What I especially love about musakhan is how it’s eaten. It’s the kind of dish you put in the middle of the table and everyone shares. To me, that represents a lot of what Middle Eastern food is about — bringing people together.

MB: What is your favorite “in a hurry” weeknight meal or favorite snack?

MK: Give me warm bread, creamy tahini, good olive oil and a plate of olives and I’m happy. When the ingredients are really good, you don’t need to do much to them.

That’s actually something I’ve learned from traveling around the world. Some of the most memorable food isn’t complicated. It’s often a few great ingredients, prepared simply, that people have been eating and sharing for generations.

That’s also part of what excites me about Karmel Market. Minneapolis is incredibly diverse, and I want the market to be a place where people can find foods they grew up with, but also discover something they’ve never tried before, ask a question and leave with a new favorite.
Karmel Market, 2933 Pleasant Ave., is open 9 a.m.-9 p.m. seven days a week.